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D1336-07 – Standard Test Method Technical Guide
The ASTM D1336 – 07 (Reapproved 2019) standard, under the jurisdiction of Committee D13 on Textiles, defines a specific test method for measuring the distortion of one set of yarns over another in woven cloth. This technique evaluates the propensity for yarns to shift when a surface friction force is applied, serving as a critical indicator of aesthetic quality and resistance to unwanted appearance changes in specific fabric constructions.
🧪 Overview and Scope of Test Method D1336
This test method is specifically designed to measure yarn distortion following the application of surface friction. It is especially applicable to open-weave fabrics such as nettings, marquisettes, gauzes, and chiffons, as well as heavier fabrics made from slippery surface yarns. The standard complements the now-withdrawn Test Method D434 for seam slippage, focusing instead on the planar distortion of the weave itself. Key terminologies are drawn from Standards D4850 (Fabric Test Methods) and D123 (General Textiles). The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the primary standard for this method.
⚙️ Test Procedure and Measurement Criteria
The procedure subjects a prepared and conditioned specimen (per Practice D1776) to a controlled shearing force acting within the plane of the fabric. This mechanical action mimics the frictional stresses fabrics undergo during wear or use. The degree to which this force causes the yarns to shift, thereby distorting the original symmetry of the weave, provides the primary metric for the test.
The resulting distortion is quantitatively assessed by measuring the widest opening created in the fabric structure. This measurement is reported in hundredths of an inch, offering a precise, reproducible value for representing the fabric’s susceptibility to marking or shifting.
📋 Core Parameters and Associated Standards
| 🟦 Parameter | 📏 Requirement / Specific Reference |
|---|---|
| Standard Designation | D1336 – 07 (Reapproved 2019) |
| 📐 Unit of Measurement | Widest opening in hundredths of an inch (0.01 in) |
| 🎯 Applicable Fabric Types | Open-weave fabrics (nettings, gauzes) & fabrics with slippery surface yarns |
| 🟦 Measurement Scope | Yarn distortion after application of a shearing force in the fabric plane |
| ⚡ Conditioning Practice | D1776 – Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles |
| 📌 Related Terminology Standards | D4850 (Fabrics) & D123 (Textiles General) |
| 📐 Equivalent Government Standard | Federal Test Method Standard 191 – Method 5410 |
💡 Important Distinction: D1336 specifies the evaluation of yarn distortion (aesthetic shifts often called “finger marks”) explicitly in the plane of the fabric. This differs from assessing yarn slippage at a standard seam line (previously covered by D434). Ensure the correct standard is specified based on whether the concern is overall fabric appearance or seam integrity.
📊 Significance and Interpretation of Results
D1336 is widely accepted in the textile trade for the acceptance testing of commercial shipments due to its long history and acceptable estimates of between-laboratory precision. The resulting measurement serves as a direct indication of the fabric’s propensity to develop objectionable appearance changes frequently termed “finger marks” or “shift marks”.
In cases of dispute concerning acceptance, the standard specifies that the statistical bias between the purchaser’s and seller’s laboratories must be established. Any comparative testing must be based on randomized specimens drawn from a single representative sample of the fabric lot to ensure a fair and accurate assessment of the material’s characteristics.
✅ Trade Acceptance: The method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing since its original approval in 1954. Current precision estimates confirm its reliability for distinguishing between lots based on their yarn distortion characteristics, making it a valuable tool for product development and quality assurance specifications.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
🔍 What is the exact designation and approval status of this standard?
The standard is formally designated as D1336 – 07 (Reapproved 2019). It was originally approved in 1954, with the latest reapproval confirming its technical relevance and continued use in the industry.
💡 How is the yarn distortion exactly measured in the test?
Following the application of the specified shearing force, the distortion is quantified as the single widest opening created in the weave structure. This opening is precisely measured in hundredths of an inch (0.01 in), which serves as the definitive test result.
⚡ What types of fabrics are particularly applicable to this test?
This test method is especially applicable to open-weave fabrics such as nettings, marquisettes, gauzes, and chiffons, in addition to heavier fabrics constructed from slippery surface yarns. These constructions exhibit the highest risk of yarn shifting and visible distortion (“finger marking”).
📌 What is the relationship between D1336 and Federal Standard 191-5410?
Test Method D1336 shares a closely aligned methodology with the Federal Test Method Standard 191, Method 5410 (Slippage Resistance of Yarns in Cloth, Yarn Distortion Method). This provides technical consistency for manufacturers and labs serving both commercial and government procurement specifications.