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D1244-98 – Standard Test Method Technical Guide
🎯 Scope and Purpose of ASTM D1244-98
ASTM D1244-98 (Reapproved 2020) establishes a standardized practice for the designation of yarn construction. It provides a reference system for the trade, particularly for use in correspondence and publications. This practice is applicable to single yarns, plied yarns, and cabled yarns or cords constructed from filaments or spun fibers. It is important to note that this standard does not cover the description of novelty yarns or core spun yarns.
The standard conforms in general with International Organization for Standardization (ISO) 1139, but has a notably broader scope. While ISO 1139 covers only the tex direct yarn numbering system, ASTM D1244 also accommodates other direct systems and traditional indirect yarn numbering systems. The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard for this practice.
📐 Key Designation Symbols and Abbreviations
D1244-98 defines specific symbols to simplify yarn construction notation. Understanding these symbols and their precise placement relative to the numerical yarn number is critical for accurate technical communication in the industry.
| 🟦 Symbol | 📏 Meaning | 📐 Application |
|---|---|---|
| R | Resultant Yarn Number | Designates the resultant number of plied or cabled yarns; placed before the numerical value. |
| B | Resultant Yarn Number (Bulked) | Designates the resultant yarn number of bulked yarns; placed before the numerical value. |
| × | Multiplication Symbol | Used before the number of identical component strands combined at any stage of manufacture in direct yarn numbering systems. |
Technical Note: The ‘R’ symbol is essential for specifying the final construction. For example, a 2-ply yarn made from two 20 tex singles is designated as
20 tex × 2 or, using the resultant number, R 40 tex. The different notations clearly distinguish between the component count and the final linear density.
📊 Application and Designation Examples
The following table provides practical examples of how to designate common yarn structures using both direct (Tex) and indirect (e.g., Cotton Count, Ne) systems as authorized by D1244-98.
| ⚡ Yarn Structure | 🎯 Direct System (Tex) | 🎯 Indirect System (Ne) |
|---|---|---|
| Single Yarn | 20 tex | Ne 20 |
| 2-Ply Yarn | 20 tex × 2 | Ne 20/2 |
| 3-Ply Cabled Yarn | 20 tex × 2 × 3 | Ne 20/2/3 |
| Resultant Designation | R 40 tex | R 40 tex (or equivalent) |
It is critical to adhere to the specific order of symbols to avoid ambiguity. The primary purpose of this standard is to keep the notation as simple as possible while ensuring that all necessary information about the yarn construction is conveyed. Certain portions of the full notation may be omitted provided there is no doubt as to the omitted parts.
Compliance Note: For accurate application, refer to Terminology D123 for general textile definitions and D4849 for yarn and fiber terminology. The standard practice for using the Tex system specifically is covered in ASTM D861. Always ensure the correct placement of ‘R’ and ‘B’ symbols to distinguish between individual component counts and the final resultant yarn count.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
🔍 What is the primary purpose of ASTM D1244-98?
The primary purpose is to establish a reference system for designating yarn construction for use in the trade, particularly in correspondence and publications. It delivers a simplified notation for single, plied, and cabled yarns while minimizing ambiguity.
💡 How does ASTM D1244 differ from ISO 1139?
ISO 1139 exclusively covers the use of the tex direct yarn numbering system. In contrast, ASTM D1244 has a broader scope, covering both direct yarn numbering systems (like tex) and traditional indirect yarn numbering systems (like cotton count or worsted count).
⚡ What does the multiplication symbol (×) represent in a yarn designation?
In a direct yarn numbering system, the multiplication symbol (×) indicates the number of identical component strands that are combined at a given stage of manufacture. For example, ’20 tex × 2′ means two 20 tex single yarns have been plied together into a single operation.
📌 Are novelty yarns or core spun yarns covered by this standard?
No. Section 1.1 of the scope explicitly states that this practice does not cover the description of novelty yarns or core spun yarns of various types. For specialty constructions, alternative specification documents are required.