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D4233-01 – Standard Test Method Technical Guide
📐 Overview and Scope
ASTM D4233-01 is a standard performance specification for women’s and girls’ knitted and woven brassiere fabrics. It applies to fabrics made from any fiber or combination, but specifically excludes those containing elastomeric yarns, knitted lace fabrics, and materials used for interlinings. All requirements are evaluated in both the length and width directions of the fabric where applicable.
⚙️ Test Methods and Sampling
The standard references numerous ASTM and AATCC test methods to evaluate fabric properties. These include methods for mechanical strengths, dimensional changes, and colorfastness. Sampling is based on MIL-STD-105D to ensure representative results. The most current editions of all referenced test methods are used for compliance.
| 🟦 Property | 📏 Test Method | 🎯 Scope |
|---|---|---|
| Breaking Load (Woven) | ASTM D1682 | Measures tensile strength |
| Tearing Strength | ASTM D1424, D2261, D2262 | Elmendorf and tongue tear methods |
| Bursting Strength (Knitted) | ASTM D3786, D3787 | Hydraulic and ball burst tests |
| Colorfastness to Crocking | AATCC 8, 116 | Dry and wet crocking resistance |
| Colorfastness to Perspiration | AATCC 15 | Acid and alkali perspiration |
| Colorfastness to Light | AATCC 16 | Lightfastness evaluation |
| Dimensional Change | AATCC 135 | Home laundering dimensional stability |
💡 All test methods referenced in ASTM D4233-01 are subject to their current editions as per Note 1 of the standard. Always verify the latest versions for compliance.
📊 Performance Specifications
Table 2 lists the minimum requirements for woven and knitted brassiere fabrics. These values ensure adequate performance during use and care.
| 🟦 Property | 📏 Woven Fabrics | 🟦 Knitted Fabrics | 🎯 Requirement |
|---|---|---|---|
| Breaking Strength (Length) | 150 N min | N/A | ASTM D1682 |
| Breaking Strength (Width) | 120 N min | N/A | ASTM D1682 |
| Tearing Strength | 20 N min | N/A | ASTM D1424 |
| Bursting Strength | N/A | 200 kPa min | ASTM D3786 |
| Resistance to Yarn Slippage | 6.4 mm max | N/A | ASTM D434 |
| Dimensional Change (Laundering) | ±5.0% max | ±5.0% max | AATCC 135 |
| Colorfastness to Light | Grade 4 min | Grade 4 min | AATCC 16 |
| Colorfastness to Crocking (Dry) | Grade 4 min | Grade 4 min | AATCC 8 |
| Colorfastness to Crocking (Wet) | Grade 3 min | Grade 3 min | AATCC 8 |
| Colorfastness to Perspiration | Grade 4 min | Grade 4 min | AATCC 15 |
| Colorfastness to Washing | Grade 4 min | Grade 4 min | AATCC 61 |
| Colorfastness to Drycleaning | Grade 4 min | Grade 4 min | AATCC 132 |
⚠️ This specification does not apply to knitted lace fabrics, interlinings, or fabrics containing elastomeric yarns. These must be evaluated under separate standards.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
🔍 What types of fabrics are covered by D4233-01?
This standard covers woven and knitted brassiere fabrics made from any fiber or blend, excluding those with elastomeric yarns, knitted lace, and interlinings.
💡 How is colorfastness to crocking evaluated?
AATCC Test Methods 8 (Crockmeter) and 116 (Rotary Vertical Crockmeter) are used. Requirements include Grade 4 for dry crocking and Grade 3 for wet crocking.
⚡ What are the bursting strength requirements for knitted fabrics?
Knitted fabrics must have a minimum bursting strength of 200 kPa as tested by ASTM D3786 or D3787.
📌 Which sampling standard is referenced?
MIL-STD-105D is used for sampling procedures to ensure statistical validity in inspections.