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D4118-23 – Standard Test Method Technical Guide
📜 Scope and Classification
ASTM D4118-23 specifies the performance requirements for woven fabrics (any fiber or mixture) used in coveralls, dungarees, overalls, and shop coats. It recognizes two levels of wearing severity and is explicitly not applicable to fabrics for industrial-protective clothing.
⚠️ Important Distinction: This standard covers general-purpose work apparel. Protective clothing applications (e.g., chemical, thermal) are governed by separate standards. Verify end-use compliance before application.
🛡️ Key Performance Properties and Test Methods
The specification evaluates fabric durability, appearance, and safety through a comprehensive set of referenced test methods. The table below outlines the core properties evaluated under this standard. Specific performance limits depend on the chosen severity level and end-use requirements.
| 🔢 Property | 📋 Standard |
|---|---|
| Breaking Strength | ASTM D5034 (Grab Test) |
| Tearing Strength | ASTM D1424 (Elmendorf) / D2261 (Tongue Tear) |
| Dimensional Change | AATCC TM135 (Home) / TM96 (Commercial) |
| Colorfastness: Light | AATCC TM16.3 (Xenon-Arc) |
| Colorfastness: Crocking | AATCC TM8 / TM116 |
| Colorfastness: Laundering | AATCC TM61 (Accelerated) |
| Colorfastness: Perspiration | AATCC TM15 |
| Colorfastness: Bleach | AATCC TM172 / TM188 |
| Colorfastness: Burnt Gas Fumes | AATCC TM23 |
| Colorfastness: Drycleaning | AATCC TM132 |
| Flammability | 16 CFR 1610 |
| Appearance Retention | AATCC TM124 (Smoothness) |
💡 Technical Tip: Always specify the exact test procedure variant (e.g., number of wash cycles for AATCC TM135, specific Crockmeter AATCC TM8 vs TM116) and the acceptable Gray Scale ratings (AATCC EP1, EP2, EP8) in the material specification to ensure accurate and reproducible evaluations.
📐 Reference Standards and Sampling
Compliance with D4118-23 relies on a broader network of supporting standards. Terminology is defined per ASTM D123. Bonded or laminated fabrics must meet ASTM D2724. Sampling procedures must strictly follow ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 for attribute inspection to ensure statistical validity.
| 📌 Standard | 📄 Description |
|---|---|
| ASTM D123 | Terminology Relating to Textiles |
| ASTM D2724 | Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics |
| AATCC EP1 / EP2 / EP8 | Gray Scales for Color Change, Staining & Chromatic Transference Scale |
| ANSI/ASQ Z1.4 | Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes |
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
🔍 What fabric types are covered?
Woven fabrics composed of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers for use in coveralls, dungarees, overalls, and shop coats.
💡 Does this apply to industrial-protective clothing?
No. Section 1.3 of the standard specifically excludes fabrics intended for use in the manufacture of industrial-protective clothing, which is covered by other standards.
⚡ What are the wearing severity levels?
The standard recognizes two levels relative to performance requirements. The specific threshold values for properties like breaking strength and tearing strength are defined in the full standard’s detailed requirements table for each level.
📌 What is the flammability requirement?
Fabrics must comply with 16 CFR 1610, the Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles, as referenced in Section 2.3 of the specification.