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D2817-18 – Standard Test Method Technical Guide
ASTM D2817-18 establishes the critical benchmark for the maximum allowable coarse-hair content in cashmere materials. This specification is essential for quality assurance and acceptance testing across the supply chain, from fiber processing to finished goods.
📜 Scope and Significance
This standard applies to cashmere that has been processed at least to the roving stage and covers final product forms such as roving, yarn, and fabric. For blends containing cashmere and other fibers, D2817-18 governs only the cashmere hair component within the mixture. It serves as a formal basis for acceptance testing between buyers and sellers when both parties agree to its use.
⚠️ Critical Reference Note: The determining test method referenced in this standard, D2816, has been withdrawn. However, ASTM D2817-18 remains the active specification standard. Parties relying on this specification must work together to establish a valid alternative test method or procedure that satisfies the requirements of this standard for acceptance testing.
📏 Maximum Coarse-Hair Specification
The core technical requirement of the standard is definitive: the cashmere coarse-hair content must be strictly controlled to maintain the fine quality expected of cashmere products. This limit is based on extensive interlaboratory studies.
| 🟦 Parameter | 📐 Specification Limit | 📝 Supporting Data |
|---|---|---|
| Maximum Coarse-Hair Content (by length) | ≤ 0.7% | This is the official pass/fail criterion for all material forms (roving, yarn, fabric). |
| Corresponding Mass Percentage | Generally > 3.0% | Interlaboratory tests show that exceeding the 0.7% length limit typically correlates with a mass percentage above 3.0%. |
💡 Practical Insight: The relationship between the 0.7% length limit and the implied 3.0% mass percentage provides a dual perspective for quality control. While the length-based measurement is the official metric for specification compliance, the mass correlation highlights the physical significance of coarse hairs on the final product’s hand feel and performance.
🔬 Testing and Compliance Protocol
Compliance with the 0.7% coarse-hair threshold is determined through a structured testing protocol. The process is designed for efficiency in routine use while providing a clear and rigorous path for resolving disagreements between parties.
| 🎯 Test Scenario | ⚡ Required Tests | 📌 Decision Rule |
|---|---|---|
| Routine Determination | Single test | The result is accepted unless formally disputed by a party in interest. |
| Dispute Resolution | Two additional tests on different samples | The final decision is based on the majority result of the total tests performed. |
This structured approach ensures that the specification can be applied consistently and fairly in commercial transactions, maintaining the integrity of the cashmere supply.
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
🔍 What is the maximum allowable cashmere coarse-hair content according to ASTM D2817-18?
The standard specifies that the cashmere coarse-hair content in products such as roving, yarn, or fabric must not exceed 0.7% by length.
💡 How does the 0.7% length limit correlate to the percentage by mass?
Extensive interlaboratory tests, detailed in Note 2 of the standard, indicate that exceeding the 0.7% coarse-hair content by length generally results in a percentage by mass that exceeds 3.0%.
⚡ What is the testing protocol if a dispute arises over the cashmere coarse-hair content?
In the case of a dispute, the standard requires making two additional tests on different samples. The final decision is then based on the majority result from the full set of tests.
📌 What should be done since the primary referenced test method (D2816) has been withdrawn?
While Test Method D2816 has been withdrawn, Specification D2817-18 remains active. Parties relying on this specification must mutually agree upon a suitable alternative testing procedure to ensure ongoing compliance and acceptance testing.